Putting it all Together...
So, you're ready to get your first skateboard? A decision you've made so that you too can ride the rolling urban landscapes of the world. Well, you have two choices; get a complete skateboard, which comes already set up and ready to ride, or get all the components and set it up to your own specs. The second choice may seem a bit more daunting, but in reality it's a no-brainer. And you have the freedom of choosing and customizing your set up, exactly how you want it. What can be better than that? The following are instructions on setting up your new board properly and effectively. If you are under 15, get your Mom or Dad to help you out.
Tools Needed
- Metal file
- Safety knife with fresh blade
- Phillips screwdriver or allen wrench
- Scratch Awl (though either of no. 3 will work)
- 3/8", ½", 9/16" nut drivers
- Optional power drill
- A work bench or workspace that will get scratched up. A vise helps but is not necessary.
- Griptape
Griptape is the gritty sticker-backed material that helps your shoes grip the board while riding. This goes on your deck first - obviously, on the top of the board (duh). It usually comes in full-length sheets and various colors and designs. Pull the backing off the grip tape sheet and place it on the top of your board. It doesn't matter if it is crooked, but make sure it goes over all edges. You can also do half-at-a-time by pulling only half the backing off, placing it on the board, then pulling the rest of the backing off and pressing it on the other half. Whatever floats your boat. Place your board on the ground (carpet if you are worried about scratching the underside) and walk all over it, making sure the grip tape is stuck on good. If you notice air bubbles in the grip tape, you can pop them with the tip of the razor. Now put the board up on your bench or workspace.
Ok, here comes the trade secret. Take your file and firmly file an outline of the board right onto the deck's edge. Do not file through the tape to the deck, just remove the gritty stuff. This gives you a guideline to cut the excess off, and also makes it easy to cut. Grab the safety knife, holding the blade 45 degrees to the edge, and come up from the bottom side of the grip (diagram 1a). Cut along the line you just filed and trim the excess tape off. If you do this right, it should cut off like butter. No effort what so ever. Be careful not to file and trim so deep that you cut into the board. Once you've cut off the excess grip, give the board a light "run over" with the file to secure any raised edges. Success! We are ready to move on to the next step.
Truck Mounting
Use a scratch awl (or whatever else will fit through a mounting hole) to poke through the grip tape where the truck holes are (on the board) so you can install the mounting hardware that holds the trucks on. Be careful not to poke yourself. Now grab the board and put it between your legs, or just hold it or have a friend hold it. A bench vice works too. Take the mounting bolts and push them through the truck holes on the board, four per truck (do one truck at a time).
Slide the optional riser pads onto the bolt ends, then do the same with the truck. Make sure the truck bushings and kingpins are facing each other towards the middle of the board when they are both mounted (diagram 1b). This is very important, because if you put the trucks on backwards, they will turn in the opposite direction that you want them to, and that wouldn't be good. Secure them with nylon inserted locknuts and tighten them down snug with the screwdriver or allen tool and the 3/8" nut driver. Repeat this process with the other truck. Wheels up next!
Wheel Assembly and Mounting
Okay, you're almost there. The most difficult part of assembling wheels is getting the bearings into the wheel without damaging the delicate shields on the bearings. The softer wheels are fairly easy to pop the bearings into, but with the harder durometers it gets a little tough. Bearing tools (or bearing presses) are available, but not always handy. Low and behold, you can McGiever it and use your truck as a bearing tool. There are two bearings and a spacer per wheel. Drop one of the bearings on the truck axle, followed by a spacer, and press the bearing into the wheel using the leverage between your hand and the truck (diagram 1c). Take a visual to make sure they are seated flush all the way. Do the same for the other bearing. Most quality trucks have two thin washers on each axle. These are mounted on the outside of the bearings to achieve a good bearing seat and minimize friction. Axle washers minimize friction even more by allowing less of the bearing to come in contact with the washer. After the washers are in place and the wheel is installed, follow it all with a nylon inserted ½" aircraft lock nut. Tighten it down snug and then back the nut off until you get non-binding roll with minimum play - just a little bit jiggley.
Ready to Skate?
Ok, you are just about ready to roll. Give the deck a quick check for any missed nuts and bolts. Sometimes, when a board is brand new and you place the board on a flat surface, not all of the wheels will sit flat. Three wheels may touch but the other might be floating a bit. This is normal, and the problem will vanish once the truck cushions are worked in and relaxed. Another minor problem you may face is that new wheels don't spin very freely. Once the board is used and the bearings settle in the wheels, they will spin free and true. Adjust the truck kingpin nut (9/16") to dictate how the board turns. If you loosen the nut, this causes the trucks to turn more freely. If you tighten it they will turn less. Take your time getting to know what feels right. Have a tool handy when you are riding so that you can make minor adjustments. (You should always check your ride before hittin' it. Things loosen up.)